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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s top eateries, one might foresee well-known high-end venues. Yet, situated high among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

An Unexpected Honour

The little Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. The accolade has made the proprietors totally astonished.

“I’m totally astonished,” says a proprietor, referring to his parents’ relentless work that led to their modest place earning such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its former character. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the food, and this eatery certainly delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent texture.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can start at many times that figure.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s success is bound to resonate beyond its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this gastronomic triumph.